Hokkaido - Abashiri, Notoro and Notsuke

We'll be leaving Hokkaido tomorrow afternoon, after a really memorable time here. Despite the winter being extremely mild, lower snow than normal and a distinct lack of sea ice we've managed to come away with some really decent stuff. And it was still pretty cold too to be honest! Large numbers of quality birds all along the coast... copious numbers of Harlequins mainly with a load of Black Scoters thrown in.

We started our coastal birding in the north around the town of Abashiri and Cape Notoro. This was the first in a long line of sites we'd check for Asian Rosy Finch, but pride of place here was a Siberian Grey Shrike on roadside wires a km or so before the lighthouse. A pretty scarce bird in Japan, and one we've got Josh J and Google translate to thank for the gen.

Siberian Grey Shrike Cape Notoro, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

Back in Abashiri with a nice dumping of snow, the local Slaty-backed Gulls and a few Glaucous Gulls were out in force. A handful of Falcated Ducks were on the river, and a few Oriental Greenfinches seemed a bit out of their depth.

adult Slaty-backed Gull Abashiri, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

juvenile Glaucous Gull Abashiri, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

We headed east along the coast towards Shari, stopping off at a swan park where there'd been a hutchinsii Canada Goose a couple of days previously. We couldn't find this yank stray but a few Harlequins on the river, a drake Smew, a couple of distant Steller's Sea Eagles and Red-crowned Cranes at least gave us something to look at.

adult Slaty-backed Gull Shari, Hokkaido 27th December 2015 (with Mick S looking elsewhere)

Despite our best efforts to get the gulls in with the usual bread and popcorn at Shari, as soon as one of these beasts flew over they all scarpered, even the Glaucs.

White-tailed Eagle Shari, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

The next day (after our first night with Blakiston's Fish Owls - see previous post), we headed east and onto the coast again after a check of Yoroushi-onsen for Solitary Snipe. This was unsuccessful but the many brandtii Jays played ball.

Jay Yoroushi-onsen, Hokkaido 28th December 2015

Once on the coast, checking of harbour revealed good numbers of Harlequins and Black Scoters once again, with a scattering of Pacific Divers and Red-necked Grebes. We headed into Rausu, knowing full well all the boat trips to see the eagles on the ice wouldn't be happening (due to the lack of ice), so we cut our losses and retraced our steps south and then onto the Notsuke Peninsula. And the Steller's Sea Eagles duly obliged, in large numbers.

Steller's Sea Eagles Notsuke, Hokkaido 28th December 2015

There were also a number of White-tailed Eagles on the peninsular too, as well as twenty or so Snow Buntings; however our quest for Asian Rosy Finch would have to be finishe another day.

Blakiston's Fish Owl nights x2

We've had a cracking time the last three days, seeing lots of good birds including Steller's Sea Eagles, Northern (Siberian) Grey Shrike, countless seaduck including Stejneger's and Black Scoter and more Harlequins than you know what to do with; we're still going good with the gulls too. However, there is a certain bird that deserves its own post... the world's largest owl. This is our first night off them, having visited a couple of sites, Yuyado Daiichi at Yoroushi-onsen and then last night at Washi no Yado just outside the town of Rausu. Both were absolutely gripping, in their own ways. We saw two birds at each site.

Blakiston's Fish Owl Yoroushi-onsen, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

Blakiston's Fish Owl Washi no Yado, Hokkaido 27th December 2015

Yoroushi-onsen gave us by far the closer views, with birds perched just metres away as they fished. You're looking through glass here though, and as the place is a spa retreat it's possible you'll have to put up with members of the public blocking your view. Make sure too that if you visit this site you have something less than a 400mm lens as the birds are obviously massive and way too close (unless you just want head shots).

Washi no Yado is the old school site, set up for birders and photographers with a more rustic feel. It was probably more atmospheric too, perhaps because we visited in heavy snow. What you have here is a special viewing room, where you can open the windows without any glare. Compared to Yoroushi-onsen, the birds are a little bit more distant (but that's not necessarily a bad thing!).

One thing's for sure, with either of these sites you really can't go wrong - an experience you'll remember for all your life.

more cranes and gulls (plus a White's Thrush) on Hokkaido today

Our first Hokkaido dawn was cold, minus fifteen to be precise. There's this place on the river just outside of Tsurui where you get the Red-crowned Cranes roosting up and then in the morning, hopefully with a load of mist, you pap them to get atmospheric shots. And so the dudes that we are, there was only one thing to do... join the many Japanese and do our thing.

Red-crowned Cranes Tsurui, Hokkaido 26th December 2015

And after we got our fill of the cranes (and a good bit of sashimi for breakfast), it was back to normal territory for us in Kushiro harbour. After yesterday's larid feast there, and with crisp light (albeit with a biting wind), it was rude not to get among the Slaty-backed Gulls and their friends. Just a few here, and worth noting the vastly differing mantle tones.

Slaty-backed Gulls Kushiro harbour, Hokkaido 26th December 2015 (top three adults, fourth down second-winter and above first-winter)

juvenile presumed hybrid Glaucous-winged x Glaucous Gull Kushiro harbour, Hokkaido 26th December 2015

After a couple of hours we headed back north and on to Lake Kussharo. The Whooper Swans were about, but the ice that you get later in the winter hadn't formed and it was all a bit of an anticlimax, having to watch little Japanese kids running around feeding them popcorn. Retiring to our accommodation earlier than planned, the day thankfully didn't quite end as planned when this Siberian beauty popped out next to us...

White's Thrush Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido 26th December 2015

Christmas with cranes, eagles and gulls

We landed in a winter wonderland today, Japan's northerly outpost of Hokkaido. After landing in Kushiro, there was only one thing for it - hit the busy harbour. In snowy conditions, it was a real contrast to the balmy weather yesterday down in Kyushu and there was also another big change in that the composition of gulls was completely different. Slaty-backed Gulls dominated, and alongside them there were a load of Glaucous-winged Gulls and Kamchatka Gulls as well as a couple of Glaucous Gulls (an adult and a juvenile). A few seaduck were about too, namely Goldeneyes and Scaup but with the odd Black Scoter thrown in. A very nice introduction...

adult Glaucous-winged Gull Kushiro, Hokkaido 25th December 2015

adult Slaty-backed Gulls (above two) Kushiro, Hokkaido 25th December 2015

Kamchatka Gulls (1st-winters and adult, above) Kushiro, Hokkaido 25th December 2015

After blasting away in the blizzard, it was time to head off to Akan where the Red-crowned Cranes were putting on their usual show in the sunshine. Seventy of them, pretty majestic and doing a bit of dancing between their more regular munching. Just one shot here, but hundreds taken and a few birds inevitably ringed too.

Red-crowned Cranes Akan, Hokkaido 25th December 2015

A couple of times a day, fish get thrown out and White-tailed Eagles take full advantage of this. With the crisp light and close views, half a dozen of these massive beasts almost eclipsed the performance of the cranes.

adult White-tailed Eagles Akan, Hokkaido 25th December 2015

So to sum it up, it was a pretty memorable way to spend Christmas day. Cold admittedly, and ended up having a great Japanese meal too to round proceedings off.

Cranes galore at Arasaki

White-naped and Hooded Cranes Arasaki, Japan 24th December 2015

The last couple of days have been spent on Kyushu, around the famous Crane Centre at Arasaki. This place is world known for the thousands of Hooded and White-naped Cranes that winter there each year along with loads of other waterfowl and passerines. Plenty to keep you busy for at least a couple of decent days... so here are just a few shots for now.

White-naped Cranes Arasaki, Japan 24th December 2015

Hooded Crane Arasaki, Japan 24th December 2015

And as always, if you have huge flocks of birds, there is certainly going to be the odd vagrant or two. We were unlucky this winter as there are no Siberian White Cranes (the odd juvenile appears every other year or so) but there were at least eight Sandhill Cranes as well as a Common Crane and an eclectic mixed party of Common Cranes and Hooded x Common offspring (presumably of a couple of generations).

Sandhill Crane Arasaki, Japan 23rd December 2015

 adult Common Crane (right) with two presumed hybrid Hooded x Common young (centre) and further hybrid (left) Japan 23rd December 2015

There were also a heck of a lot of other birds to be seen. The most perplexing of these being a Savannah Sparrow, a species we didn't actually realise occurred in Japan! Fodder species included japonicus Buff-bellied Pipits, lugens White Wagtails, Dusky Thrushes and Oriental Turtle Doves - all quality in themselves but pretty common here at Arasaki. We also saw the odd Chestnut-eared Bunting among the commoner Meadow and Black-faced Buntings, while Chinese Penduline Tit and Daurian Jackdaw were both successfully targeted. Careful searching through the wildfowl gave up a quality drake Baikal Teal as well as perhaps a dozen Falcated Ducks and a couple of suspect Wigeon with a bit of yank lineage.

drake Baikal Teal Arasaki, Japan 23rd December 2015

Savannah Sparrow Arasaki,  Japan 24th December 2015

We also took time out from the cranes and visited the River Sendai at Satsuma where there didn't appear to be any Scaly-sided Mergansers this winter so far, despite searching on both days. Crested Kingfisher and Cat A Mandarins were seen at Kagowa Dam while we couldn't help but visit a nearby fish port for an hour or so and pap a load of its offering, namely Black-tailed, Vega and Slaty-backed Gulls (as well as a showy Dusky Thrush).

Dusky Thrush Akune, Japan 24th December 2015

1st-winter Black-tailed Gull Akune, Japan 24th December 2015

Now back in Tokyo and onwards and upwards to Hokkaido in the morning. Happy Christmas to all!

First days in Japan

I've only been in Japan since Sunday, and that was a day of travel across Tokyo. I'm here with Mick S and Josh J to have a decent look around the place and focus on a few target species we all want to have a look at. One thing that has been apparent right from the word go is the cleanliness and politeness of this place. Just a quick post for now though, what with bird filled days and the remnants of jet lag still about slightly.

Sunday was all about arriving in Tokyo and getting across the city from one aiport to the other, in order to get our late afternoon internal flight to Kagoshima. A couple of pleasant diversions at the Meiji Jingu shrine on the way through (as well as the more elusive Grey Bunting): -

Black-faced Buntings Meiji Jingu, Tokyo December 2015

Varied Tit Meiji Jingu, Tokyo December 2015

The next day, Monday, was spent around Hyuga and Kadagowa - we drew a blank on the Japanese Murrelet front but the Black-tailed Gulls and Vega Gulls played ball and so did the Black-eared Kites: -

Black-tailed Gulls (adult and 1st-winter) Kadogawa, Kyushu December 2015

adult Vega Gull Kadogawa, Kyushu December 2015

Black-eared Kite Kadogawa, Kyushu December 2015

And then onto this morning where there was fine weather at Lake Miike - some good birds seen in the end including Ryukyu Minivet, Forest Wagtail, Yellow-throated Bunting and a nice looking male Red-flanked Bluetail.

Forest Wagtail Lake Miike, Kyushu December 2015

Red-flanked Bluetail Lake Miike, Kyushu December 2015

Yellow-throated Bunting Lake Miike, Kyushu December 2015

Onto the Yatsushiro Estuary for the afternoon, and with the target being to see and photograph Saunders's Gulls on the incoming tide we were able to take our time. Black-faced Spoonbills, Falcated Ducks, Chestnut-eared and Meadow Buntings were some of the side show on offer.

Saunders's Gulls Yatsushiro Estuary, Kyushu December 2015

Black-faced Spoonbill Yatsushiro Estuary, Kyushu December 2015

And so that's where we're at currently - lucked out on weather so far, though with some rain tomorrow and just a couple more days of Kyushu warmth, it'll be Christmas Day in the far north on Hokkaido.

The life of PNXB

The life of Saturday's 3rd-winter Caspian Gull was revealed today when, having submitted the ring details, got a response from the ever efficient Polring - they pride themselves in a turnaround of two working days!

3rd-winter Caspian Gull PNXB, Dungeness, Kent 12th December 2015

Anyway, PNXB was ringed as a chick in southern central Poland at the Kozielno, Paczkow on 24th May 2013 and ringed by Jacek Betleja. It's a site I know well, having visited the colony a couple of springs ago; the birds nest in the long grass and when the chicks are ringed all adults disperse so it's very difficult to ascertain the exact parents of each chick. The colony these days is predominantly (or nearly all) Caspian Gulls.

Polish Caspian Gull colony - the birthplace of PNXB and several other Casps to grace British shores

So after leaving the nest, PNXB headed west a bit and was seen near Poznan, Poland from 9th to 15th July 2013. It was then seen next at Den Haag, Netherlands on 3rd August 2013, then Scheveningen harbour, Netherlands on 8th August 2013 and Le Havre, Seine-Maritime, France on 12th September 2013. All went quiet til over a year later when seen at Wimereux, Pas-de-Calais, France on 29th November 2014 and then Le Portel, Pas-de-Calais, France on 28th August 2015 before turning up at Dungeness on Saturday.

Interestingly, the two red ringed first-winter Caspian Gulls that I saw at Dungeness in November were also born at this colony. Jacek and his team started off with green rings in the early days, transferring to yellow rings and then 2014 and 2015's offspring have been given red rings.