In search of Bali Starling

A couple of months ago, when planning the Bali stretch of this trip, there is only really one bird that you can say is synonymous with the island - Bali Starling, Rothschild's Myna or whatever you want to call that species that is so near extinction it's criminal that it has got to this stage. Bali is a big island, or at least it feels like it is, with the rather slow road network. These days, the Bali Starling is restricted to the extreme northwest of the island in the Bali Barat National Park. It's a 4 hour drive from the popular south and southeast coast that's frequented by tourists.

The 'real' Bali seems to still exist in this lovely corner of the world and, prior to my trip, I'd made contact with Hery Kusumanegara who is the senior ranger at Bali Barat National Park. A genuinely lovely guy, and with what seems extremely limited resources, tirelessly observes and tracks down the last few remaining Bali Starlings (unfortunately it seems as though it's down to 5 genuinely wild birds left now, at 3 locations within the national park). We got a boat from the jetty at Labuhan Lalang and headed the few km to Bumbrun, the site where Bali Starlings are reintroduced into the wild and where a couple of wild birds (told by their lack of rings) still exist.

one of four reintroduced Bali Starlings seen 'in the wild' on Bumbrun

There were four reintroduced birds – all ringed – showing rather well and typically vocal that were hanging around ‘in the wild’ around the release centre. However, there was no sign of the 1-2 wild, unringed Bali Starlings that still persist in the area. A real shame to have come all this way, to not see a genuinely wild Bali Starling. However, the habitat at Bumbrun is relatively dense coastal dry forest. I’d not known of anyone seeing this species away from this site in recent years either.

However, Hery suggested that we bust a move and head back to Labuhan Lalang as he thought we may have a better chance at another site. Just on the outskirts of Gilimanuk, in some pretty marginal habitat where cows were grazing, Hery had discovered a single Bali Starling some 5 months ago. Perhaps it’s a straggler from the nearby monsoon forest? Ever since, one of his volunteers has been helping out and making sure that this bird doesn’t become victim to another bird trapper. For obvious reasons, they try to keep a low profile with local residents while doing their duty.

Bali Starling habitat near Gilimanuk

Anyway, we got to the site and ditched our motorbike. We took a stroll in the midday sun but there was no sign. Hery’s mate arrived and we had a good look around – plenty of usual suspects such as White-shouldered Trillers, Collared Kingfishers and the like. But then, suddenly, appeared a white blob perched in a distant tree. Bins up, and there is was – a truly wild Bali Starling. Brilliant for me to see, but a bit of a double-edged sword; this lone individual being alone, without a mate, and one of only a handful of this species left that is presumably, within my lifetime, destined for extinction. Compared to the reintroduced birds on Bumbrun, this was a truly wild, skittish bird...

the real deal - one of only a handful of wild Bali Starlings left

Indonesia - the first few days

Quite a lot has gone on since the last post from Hong Kong. Flying into Surabaya a few days ago, the first thing to do was admire the active volcano that is Mount Bromo. It was excellent, with a decent sunrise, lovely secenery and some pretty sulphurous fumes... but given that a 2km exclusion zone was lifted only a few weeks ago (due to a recent eruption earlier this year), the ash made the area pretty birdless. Apart from a few swiftlets to give me a headache (probably Glossy Swiftlets)!

The journey from Surabaya was filled full of roadside egrets and Javan Pond Herons, though the highlight was a nice Javan Kingfisher - good to see it first on the island after it was named. A few other bits and bobs, with the obligatory Yellow-vented Bulbuls replaced at high altitude (around Bromo) by an Indonesian endemic, Orange-spotted Bulbul.

Scaly-breasted Munia

After just a couple of days on Java, which really didn't do the place justice, it was time to fly on to Denpasar on Bali where I'll be for a while now. After a slow start on the first day (having ditched down for the night in Ubud), I've now been in the northwest of the island for the last 2 days. Too much to write about just now, but privileged to have seen one of the few remaining wild Bali Starling (that was not from the reintroduction scheme) as well as Black-winged Starling, Javan Banded Pitta, Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher, Javan Plover, Sunda Teal and a whole lot more.

That darn leaf... Javan Banded Pitta

Birds in central HK

Birding is, unsurprisingly, pretty slow in Hong Kong in August. With daytime temperatures in the mid 30s and pretty grim humidity, it's no wonder that the birds keep low. However, there are normally a few bulbuls calling away along with the odd Myna or Black-collared Starling. In the skies, Black Kites are the major players.

All the rage in the early 21st century...

I've also managed to walk round a few of the parks, as well as The Peak, and Black-throated and Masked Laughingthrushes seem to be relatively easy to see. Also quite a lot of Common Tailorbirds and Japanese White-eyes, but that's about it in the way of small passerines; obviously in wintertime the place would be full of Sibes.

Masked Laughingthrush

Also, alongside a few captive birds, at Kowloon Park a few Black-crowned Night Herons show well and are easy to photograph.

juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron

And just to round the HK leg of the trip off before tomorrow's flight to Surabaya, a couple more from Mai Po: -

Chinese Pond Herons

It's a shame that we don't have Pond Herons in the UK, except for the odd vagrant Squacco. I must say that wherever I go on in SE Asia, I always look forward to seeing them - whether they're Chinese Pond, Indian Pond or Javan Pond; to complete the genus Ardeola there are a further two in Africa (Madagascar Pond and Rufous-bellied Heron) plus Squacco.

Chinese Pond Heron - a bit peckish and ready for aerial assault

Ok, so this post is two fold. Firstly in WRP Bourne style, one for those bird behaviour folk. I've never seen a heron fishing from the air in such Osprey-like, talismanic fashion. Look at this masterclass from an adult Chinese Pond Heron that I took at Mai Po: -

Got it!

Secondly, is CPH one for the UK someday? Personally, I still quite like the adult back in 2004 (on the back of a Rufous-tailed Robin and Chestnut-eared Bunting) but, back to my HK experience, I was actually taken aback at how noticeably different non-breeding/1st-winter Chinese Pond Herons are compared to Squaccos. And that'll be the plumage you want for a pucker UK October/November record. You're obviously seeing these birds below in fresh plumage given the time of year, but look at the strong black streaking on the ear-coverts, crown and nape. The flight shots also show the large breast streaks that are clearly demarcated onto a white belly. Also, just a little like Indian Pond, the yellow lores are bordered at the top by a nice horizontal black line. The mantle too appears relatively dark in colour. Reckon we wouldn't mess one of these boys up in Britain? Hang on... Amur Falcon. Perhaps we would.

Sweating it out at Mai Po

I headed into the New Territories today, catching an early morning train from my base on Hong Kong Island. HK's metro line really does put London to shame - super efficient, air conditioning and even TV in some of the carriages. Not bad. However, they have a still have a little bit to learn on the food front. I asked at my hotel last night 'is there anywhere decent to eat?' and was told 'yes, there is a McDonald's and KFC just up the road'. Oh well, I guess they'll realise in time. Found myself a decent noodle house tonight, £4 for the lot and even managed to eat it (just) with chopsticks.

PGP and Sharp-tailed Sandpiper

So, the birds. I know August isn't meant to be a great month at Mai Po, but with a bit of hard work I managed to get a list that included most of the super rare Asian shorebirds on the British list. It was particularly nice to see a handful of Red-necked Stints, all adults in variable stages of moult and I was pretty chuffed with the PGP and Sharp-tailed Sandpiper side by side (the only ones of these species I saw all day); also loads of Terek Sandpipers and Greater Sand Plovers. Oh, and I also saw five Black-faced Spoonbills - a little distant but really good to finally see this endangered species.

Derek the Terek

Sharp-tailed Sand - Siberian breeder on its way to Oz?

Greater Sand Plover with crab

Oh yeah, just to finish this one off. Reckon I must have shed the odd pound today in sweat; one of the stickiest days I've ever had. And, if that wasn't enough to think about when in the mangroves I had to duck under several of these bad boys too... the size of my hand, including the legs.

Hong Kong - first evening

After a really smooth flight and early arrival, I managed to squeeze in an hour or so of birding at The Peak this evening. Nice to see a few exotic species including Silver-eared Mesia and Black-throated Laughingthrush as well as some of the usual Asian species such as Oriental Magpie Robin and Red-whiskered Bulbul. Other species seen included Japanese White-eye, Light-vented Bulbul, Black-eared Kite, Common Tailorbird, Little Swift and Great Tit. Off to Mai Po tomorrow so hope to have something to report.

Red-whiskered Bulbul

juvenile Oriental Magpie Robin

Light-vented Bulbul

looking north from The Peak over HK harbour at dusk

Nemrut Dagi

This will be my last post for Turkey, as it'll be time to move on to a new place anytime soon. Packed my bags and off to Heathrow later today. Anyway, we spent an afternoon and early morning at the fantastic site of Nemrut Dagi (the one near Adiyaman, not Van). With it being at a decent altitude, the temperature was much more pleasant and there was actually quite a bit of bird activity. We also stayed at the Cesme Pansion right by the entrance gate - excellent Trout in the evening, a simple room and decent breakfast all for £17. Eastern Turkey is noticeably cheaper than the west of the country.

Nemrut Dagi - view from the top

Eastern and Western Rock Nuthatches occurred side by side, and at one point both were together allowing the massive size of Eastern Rock to be seen. Loads of Rock Sparrows buzzing around plus niloticus Woodchats, Eastern Orphean Warblers and Black-headed Buntings. Back to what I remember Turkey being like, nice and bird filled. And also a few Cinereous Buntings, including the cryptic juveniles.

juvenile Cinereous Bunting - another streaked bunting...

Up at the top, in fact in the car park itself, we were surrounded by Shore Larks (including several juveniles) - not the best name for the species in these circumstances so for once the yanks may have their birds named correctly in the form of Horned Lark.

penicillata Horned Lark

juvenile Horned Lark

And of course, no trip to Nemrut Dagi could be complete without seeing Kurdistan Wheatears (formerly Red-tailed Wheatear of the race xanthoprymna). Several birds were seen, by the track on the way up to the summit and some nice showy birds at the cafe near the summit. The juveniles are a subtle affair, and although pretty warm, need careful separation from the many Eastern Black-eared Wheatears.

male Kurdistan Wheatear

juvenile Kurdistan Wheatear